shibuya 1999: a fashion study - part 2

Gal fashion certainly didn't reflect the traditional image of a Japanese woman: moralistic, faithful and a good wife and wise mother. At the same time, their style was far from what most men would expect of their romantic or sexual partner. - Yusuke Arai, social anthropologist 

As you'll know from my previous fashion study post, we're making our way through Mike Nogami and Masami Takahashi's photography book Shibuya 1999 and breaking down the coordinates inside. This is part two.

Well, let's not waste any time. Class is in session! 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Magenta tank top. Black a-line skirt. White belt with circle buckle. Three navy, sparkly jelly-looking bangles, two beaded bracelets, and a silver watch. Suede camel platform (stacked) boots. Yellow bag. Butterfly hair clips. 

MAKE

Black eyeliner. Dark shadow on lid. White highlighting brow bone and namidabukuro. Nude lip. 

HAIR

Bleach blonde hair. Long side bangs. Shoulder length. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Tan belted dress. Wicker bag. Two silver necklaces. Silver and black bracelets. Tall black (looks like hosiery) socks. Black strappy sandals. 

MAKE

White shadow up to brow bone and highlighting namidabukuro. Dark shadow on lid. Nude lip. 

HAIR

Brown hair with blonde highlights. Side part. Layered. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Black, v-neck t-shirt. Green skort. Layered necklaces (silver cross, wooden beads in two sizes). Black cowboy hat accessorized with a multicolored lei. Black sunglasses tucked into the t-shirt. Red and white wicker bag. Black belt with bedazzled buckle hung lowly on hips (over top of the shirt). Dark brown stacked boots with a raised line design on the platform. 

MAKE

Bright white (looks like a cream product instead of a shadow) on namidabukuro. Silverish shadow on brow bone. Silver gem near edge of left eye. White lip. 

HAIR

Baby blonde hair with layered, fluffy curls.



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

On the left: Camel cowboy hat. Yellow bottle-neck knit top with (what looks like) a plumeria (across bust) and leaf (near bottom hem) design. Knee-length a-line black skirt. Dark denim jacket tied around waist. Louis Vuitton backpack. Black suede stacked platform boots.

On the right: Alba Rosa yellow bottle-neck knit top. Dark brown (or black, it's a bit hard to tell) corduroy shorts. Camel stacked platform boots with fur lining. Barrette. 

MAKE

Both girls seem to be donning the classic ganguro make style of the time: white on brow bone and namidabukuro, dark lid, mascara, nude lip. 

HAIR

On the left: Bleach blonde hair with flipped-up ends.

On the right: Bleach blonde hair tied back in a low ponytail. Long side bangs. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Yellow tank top with white straps and hemming. Camel corduroy skirt. Thigh high black socks. Black platform sneakers. Yellow and green jelly-like bangles. Yellow and green beaded bracelets. Two layered necklaces with feather pendants. Butterfly clip in hair. 

MAKE

Shadow (I'm assuming) on lid. Subtle white on namidabukuro. 

HAIR

Black layered hair. Middle part.



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Crochet striped white and yellow tank top. Green a-line skirt. Layered kukui necklaces. Backpack. Camel stacked lace-up platform boots with black socks peeking out over the top. 

MAKE

Black eyeliner with a very subtle wing. White (I think it's leaning towards silver) on namidabukuro and brow bone. White lip. Silver gem at the edge of one eye. 

HAIR

Bleached silvery blonde hair with fringe. Layered. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Red and white striped Egoist bottle-neck knit top. Off white a-line mini skirt. Silver and blue bangles. Silver rhinestoned cross necklace. Black platform boots. Louis Vuitton purse. 

MAKE

Silverish-white shadow up to the brow. Mauve brown lip. 

HAIR

Brown highlighted hair. Side part. Light curls. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

On the left: Black bustier-style tank top. Black button-up a-line skirt. Leopard print cowboy hat. Louis Vuitton purse. Silver bangles. Black platform boots with socks poking out (the socks look like they might be fishnet with a lacy top hem). Silver cross necklace. Silver rings. 

On the right: Camel cowboy hat. Flouncy off-white tank top. Denim mini a-line skirt. Dark brown platform lace-up boots. Yellow purse. 

MAKE

Both girls are wearing very similar make: Silver eyeshadow up to the brow, mascara, nude and shimmery lip. They are both wearing blue contacts. 

HAIR

Both girls are sporting similar hair colors: brown with blonde highlights. The girl on the right has hers in two low twin tails. 


CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

High-neck zebra tank top. Red a-line mini skirt. Layered necklaces (one looks like simple silver and the other has a red feather charm). Stack of silver bangles. Blue beaded bracelets. Watch. Silver earrings. Black platform boots. Square-shaped nails with silver french type and sparkly ombre. Silver rings. 

MAKE

Cole eyeliner. Dark blue shadow on the lid. Silverish white shadow up to the brow bone and on the namidabukuro. 

HAIR

Long bleach blonde hair with side bangs. Curled ends. 



We're obviously going to see many repeat stylings in this series. You can find a more comprehensive list at the end of part 1. However, I don't want to repeat myself here, so this review will focus more on the composition of these outfits. 

A very common outfit formula (and particularly for this set of lovely gals) is this: tank top or bottle-neck knit top + a-line mini skirt + platforms

The most varied part tends to be in accessories, where each gal has their own collection, which I love. It really adds a personal touch to each coordinate. Silver does tend to be a favored metal, and those jelly-colored bangles are also a go-to.

journal tour: 2024

For the past few months, I've kept a collage journal. As an ardent collector, I wanted to have a place to store all of the stickers and clippings I came across during my day-to-day. Each thing pasted represents an assortment of memories and even more love.

Feel free to click on each image to take a closer look. ♡ 


fiction: reina earnshaw - character file

Project working title: The Gyaru Exorcist

It's been my pseudo-mission for a while now to figure out how to combine my two favorite things: horror and gyaru. If I had any artistic talent, I would surely make a manga. Alas, I can barely draw a competent stick figure. The only thing I'm semi-good at is writing, so a compilation of short stories will have to do.

As of right now, the working title for this project is The Gyaru Exorcist. I want to be very deliberate about the production of this story, not for any particular reason outside of... well, it's fun. And it gives me something to blog about. 

I always love the process of coming up with characters and the world they inhabit. That's usually a solitary pursuit, but since it's gyaru-related, I felt like I could justify posting it here. From here on out, any posts related to the development of this story and its characters will be tagged as "the creation of TGE." 

What you will find below is a very basic character file. I wanted to get a start on my main gal. It's by no means extensive, but it's a foot in the proverbial door. Things are also subject to change as the outline progresses, but I think that's part of the fun. And if you're reading this, you're coming along. 


Name: 
Reina Earnshaw (アーンショウ怜奈)
Age: 27
Sex/Gender: Female, she/her
Ethnicity: Japanese-American
Occupation: Exorcist/yokai (ghost) hunter
Socioeconomic status: Lower to middle class
Highest education: High school


Reina is fiercely independent. She appreciates authenticity and autonomy, frequently challenging social norms and speaking her mind with panache and confidence. Reina is also inventive and idealistic. Her curiosity about other people and the supernatural leads her to uncover new things, unknown powers, and innovative ways to confront evil forces. She is kind-hearted and can empathize with even the most misunderstood beings, humans and yokai alike. 

She also has a studious and curious disposition. This aspect of Reina is intense, analytical, and private. She's laid-back and strongly appreciates cuteness and leisure, which gives her personality a softer and more sensual edge. 

She is devoted to her loved ones and adamant about her beliefs. This contrasts with her more free-spirited nature, which keeps her from getting lost in her fantasies and allows her to focus on the present moment. Finally, Reina is witty, resourceful, and funny. Her versatile, almost mischievous personality aids her in her exorcism work, mainly when inventiveness and quick thinking are necessary.

Personality Types
  • Jungian: The Rebel
  • ENFP: The Dreamer
  • Enneagram: The Investigator 
  • Taurus (Western zodiac)
  • Monkey (Chinese zodiac)
External Motivation 
  • to help others by fending off the yokai and ayakashi of Tokyo
Internal Motivation
  • to feel like she belongs 



Positive Traits

  • Charismatic, resilient, intuitive, quick-witted, passionate, empathetic  
Negative Traits 
  • Capricious, gossipy, stubborn, quixotic, impulsive, impatient
Loves
  • Suntans, the beach, shopping, dancing at nightclubs, gothic romance 
Hates
  • Cold weather, traditional values, black-and-white thinking, early mornings 



Quirks and Mannerisms

  • Often gives playful nicknames to people and spirits, twirls the charms on her bracelet when thinking, makes exaggerated facial expressions
Fears and Phobias
  • Fear of being forgotten, losing loved ones, blending into the background 
Life Philosophy or Motto
  • "Live fast, leave a mark."



Basic physical characteristics 

  • Her hair is naturally brown, but she bleaches it blonde. It’s cut into a layered style with sharp side bangs, giving her that classic Shibuya ganguro look. 
  • Reina’s skin is naturally tan, but she enhances it further with tanning lotions and regular sunning in summer. She prefers looking sun-kissed all year round.
  • Her hazel eyes are a dark, warm brown with subtle green flecks. She occasionally uses colored contacts to make them appear larger or to give them a subtle honey hue.
  • Standing at about 5'5" (165 cm), she’s of average height but carries herself with a confidence that makes her seem taller. Her build is toned and fit, thanks to her love of dancing and staying active, but she maintains soft curves that suit her style. She often sports big platform shoes, putting her well over 170 cm. 
Distinguishing Features
  • She has a beauty mark under her left eye.
  • Reina’s ganguro style and makeup are her signatures—a tan and matte complexion with contrasting white shadow around her eyes, the occasional gems and stickers, and a nude lip.
Physical mannerisms
  • Reina's gait is bold and dynamic; she struts instead of walks, with a notable pep in her step. She has a knack for commanding people's attention without saying a word.
  • When she speaks, she uses her hands to emphasize what she says. It's especially evident when she's excited or telling a story, and her bright-painted nails highlight her gestures.
  • When she's feeling mischievous or scrutinizing something, she tilts her head slightly.
  • Reina tends to make big, exaggerated facial expressions, particularly in response to something amusing or startling. When someone says something unusual, she enlarges her eyes, lifts her brows, etc. It's involuntary. 
Sense of style 
  • Reina’s style is pure, unapologetic 90s ganguro. She favors bright, bold colors, resort/surf wear, platform sandals and boots, crop tops, and mini skirts. Her outfits are eye-catching and meticulously coordinated.
  • Reina loves chunky statement accessories—think kukui and shell necklaces, stacks of silver bangles, and oversized hoop earrings. She’s rarely seen without her platform sandals or heels, which boost her height.
  • Her appearance is a top priority and key to her identity. She spends considerable time each morning perfecting her look, from hair to nails to outfit, and takes pride in never leaving home less than perfectly put-together. This level of effort isn’t just about style; it’s her way of expressing herself and standing out from the crowd.
  • Reina’s makeup is a ritual and a source of confidence. She spends time layering tanning lotions and applying bold makeup. Her signature white eyeshadow and long lashes are non-negotiable, making her look both adorable and a bit intimidating.



Three Formative Experiences

  • Reina's childhood in Japan consisted of being different—a hāfu in a society that frequently emphasizes homogeneity. Her peers bullied her in middle school due to her "unusual" appearance, notably her half-American heritage, which often set her apart. Rumors in high school about her being "easy" due to her style alienated her even more, but they also helped her develop resilience. These years taught her to build a thick skin and a fiery, self-made confidence and embrace the characteristics that made her stand out rather than blend in.
  • Reina was devastated when her mother died at the end of high school, causing an abrupt and dramatic breakdown of her family dynamic. Reina's mother had always been a source of encouragement for her interests and free spirit, thus her loss left her feeling disoriented and devastated. Following this tragedy, she opted to attend college in California to get a fresh start. 
  • Reina's decision to return to Tokyo at the age of 26 to care for her sick grandma was both selfless and complicated. While she wanted to help, she found herself adrift in Tokyo, without her usual support structure, and frequently working low-wage jobs that permitted her to zone out. She began to use her grandmother’s illness as a convenient excuse for her own lack of ambition. 
Childhood
  • Reina grew up in Tokyo in a mixed Japanese-American household, which made her an outlier among her peers. 
  • Though frequently visiting her Florida-based family in America, she spent her school years in Japan, where she often struggled to fit in. As a hāfu, she was treated differently, and her appearance made her a target for teasing, particularly in middle school. 
  • Her parents, particularly her mother, encouraged her to stay true to herself, fostering her love for individuality and bold fashion from an early age. 
  • Reina's love of old-school gyaru culture and fashion grew as a way to express her uniqueness and take control of her identity. 
  • Despite the hardships, Reina was a spirited child with a big heart, learning early on to channel her pain into self-expression and develop a keen empathy for outsiders.
Most treasured possession and why?
  • Reina’s most treasured possession is a vintage charm bracelet that belonged to her mother.
  • The bracelet serves as a tangible connection to her mother. 
Event or events from their past created their flaw
  • Reina's bullying and ostracism at school had a significant impact on her impetuous, somewhat unpredictable personality. To cope with the feeling of being different, she developed a habit of seeking the unexpected and living life "in the moment" to avoid overthinking or allowing others' opinions to hurt her. Her mother's death also contributed to an ongoing restlessness, as her desire to start over in America drove her to pursue new experiences rather than confront her grief.
  • Returning to Japan to care for her grandmother sparked an internal conflict: while she adores her grandma and wishes to be there for her, she can't escape her bitterness over her stagnated life. This combination of loyalty and disquiet has driven her proclivity for self-sabotage whenever she feels imprisoned, causing her to avoid consistency and occasionally act against her own best interests. This self-sabotaging side is most visible when she selects low-effort professions or fails to pursue her aspirations fully, knowing it leaves her feeling stagnant.



Grandmother

Reina's relationship with her maternal grandma is essential to the narrative. After returning to Tokyo to care for her, they form an inseparable but complex relationship. Her grandmother's insights and experiences provide Reina with invaluable advice regarding life, spirituality, and family. However, the demands of caregiving sometimes cause stress as Reina attempts to reconcile her personal desires with her responsibilities.

Maki (High School Best Friend)
Maki has been Reina's best friend since high school, and their friendship offers comfort and security. Maki knows Reina's hardships and has always been there to cheer her up during tough times. They both enjoy fashion and nightlife and frequently spend their weekends dancing and shopping. As Reina's supernatural quest unfolds, Maki becomes a vital support system and ally.

Yoichi (Close Friend and Tech-Support)
Yoichi is introduced as a tech-savvy young man who helps Reina with her spiritual cases. Initially, their relationship is founded on a shared curiosity about the supernatural, but it quickly develops into a close friendship. Yoichi's logical and analytical approach balances Reina's impetuous tendency, allowing her to confront issues more effectively. 

Family
Reina's family was formerly quite close. However, when her mother's health deteriorated, her parents' marriage strained, resulting in an emotional schism in the family. After her mother died, her father became a shell of his old self, withdrawing into his grief and leaving Reina feeling isolated. 

shibuya 1999: a fashion study - part 1

 
At first glance, gal fashion may seem like an imitation of its Western counterparts, but at the core of this movement was the motivation to dress like people who were far less distant: Shibuya 109's charismatic shop staff, magazine models, and domestic musicians. Yusuke Arai, social anthropologist, pg 8

A quick scan of my blog will undoubtedly reveal a deluge of 90s-era gyaru: tan-skinned girls on towering platforms with white-painted eyes. I'm an old-school ganguro who loves old-school ganguros. 

As an old-school gal and lifelong student of gyaru fashion, I am constantly on the hunt for primary sources. I recently came across the book Shibuya 1999, a collection of photographs of Shibuya residents from the late 90s. Most of these residents are gals. 

Similar to what I did in my How To Be A Ganguro Girl post, I want to dive into Mike Nogami and Masami Takahashi's (collaboratively known as Clown) fantastic photography book to see what we can learn. There are too many beautiful coordinates in the book, and I want to give them all justice, so I'll divide this into parts. This is part one. 

It's possible that at the end, I'll compile a compendium of everything we learned. A fashion study review! 

But for now, let's tackle today's coordinates... Class is in session. 


CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Bright green shorts. Orange zip-up, short-sleeved hoodie (seems to be a soft, knitted fabric) with a green floral bikini top underneath. Straw cowboy hat with fake hibiscus flowers. Sandals with a cork or wood-like platform. Oval sunglasses hung from a puka shell necklace. A lanyard with her cell phone attached. Glitter square-shaped nails. Rings in silver and wood.

MAKE

White eyeshadow all the way up to the brow bone and on the namidabukuro. Dark shadow. Mascara. Teardrop-shaped crystal stickers near the eyes. Nude lip. Brown brows. 

HAIR

Bleached hair in a sandy blonde. Short and layered. Parted to the side. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Resort casual floral maxi dress. Layered necklaces with tropical themes, including shells and plumerias. Chunky purple bangle (with green and yellow accents.) Silver rings. Cellphone on lanyard. White shoulder bag. Platform wood sandals with a woven strap. 

MAKE

Deep tan foundation. White/silver highlighting brown bone and namidabukuro. Mascara. Eyeliner. White lip. Dark brows with an arch. It also looks like she's got some pronounced highlighter on her upper cheek, right near her eyes. 

HAIR

Bleached hair in white-blonde. Styled in braided twin tails with pink hair bands. Side part. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Red casual dress. Woven bag styled with a red lei. Camel suede lace-up boots (I'm guessing they're from Question Mark or Idol). Sunglasses hung on the dress front. Layered necklaces in various materials (silver, wood, leather, etc). Silver bangles. Silver hoop earrings. 

MAKE

Matte foundation. Blue contacts. Light pink (frosted) lips. Silverish-white eyeshadow up to brow bone and namidabukuro. It's unseen, but I'm sure she's wearing a dark eyeshadow and liner on the lid. Mascara. Dark, arched brows. 

HAIR

Tea-brown hair. Layered, side part, worn straight. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Alba Rosa tank top. Terry cloth (that's my best guess) mini skirt in pink. Armbands in pink and white. Bangles. Hibiscus dangle earrings in the first hole and Native-inspired earrings in the second. Denim platform sandals with pink hibiscus designs. Layered necklaces. Straw cowboy hat decorated with fake flowers. Long, square-shaped nails. Some kind of (I'm not certain what it is) flower accessory attached to the front of her tank top. It also looks like she has her wallet or cell phone tucked in her bra. 

MAKE

Tan, matte foundation. White shadow up to brow bone. Dark shadow on lid. Mascara. Fake lashes (top and bottom). Gem stickers near eyes. Light lips. Dark brows. 

HAIR

Bleached blonde hair. Cut to the shoulders. Worn straight. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Yellow tank top. White shorts. Sandals with a tall wood platform. Silver dog tag necklaces. Wooden bangles. Yellow and pink beaded bracelets. Thick white hoops. 

MAKE

Subtle (extremely subtle by usual ganguro standards) white on brow bone and namidabukuro. Silver star stickers near one of her eyes. Brown brows. 

HAIR

Bleached blonde hair in a yellowish shade. Shoulder length. Middle part. Front pieces of hair pulled back with pink clips.



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Blue floral casual dress. Large shell (looks like white coral) necklace. Silver layered necklace with a variety of charms including a white scallop. Silver accessories including rings, bracelet, and watch. Mules with a wooden platform. 

MAKE

Subtle white highlight on brow bone and namidabukuro. Arched brown brows. Light pink (so light it's almost undetectable) frosted lips. 

HAIR

Bleached blonde hair. Side part. Layers. 


CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Low-waisted, dark denim jeans with a slight flare at the bottom. Black tank top with yellow straps. Dangle earrings. Black cowboy hat. Cowrie shell armband. Red Alba Rosa knapsack with clear hibiscus clip. Dark wood platform sandals. Blue square-shaped nails. 

MAKE

Deep tan foundation. White shadow on brow bone and namidabukuro. Arched, brown brows. 

HAIR

Tea-brown hair pulled back into a low ponytail. Middle part. Long, face-framing bangs. 


CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Low-waisted, dark denim flare jeans. Off-white belt. Light orange polo tank top. Sandals with a dark wood platform. Long-layered necklaces, one being kukui and the other being transparent beads. Wicker bag with tropical flower accents. Beaded bracelets

MAKE

Subtle white shadow on brow bone and namidabukuro. Tan, matte complexion.

HAIR

Honey blonde hair. Layered. Middle part. Worn straight. 


When doing these studies, I constantly look for recurrent fashion elements. This makes it easier to determine what is most "gyaru" about these coordinates. 

KEY NOTES

  • Tan complexion 
    • Foundation is typically dark and matte
  • Bleached, layered hair (in various shades ranging from very white blonde to light tea brown) 
    • Side parts were favored by many ganguro at the time
  • Clothing in a bright color palette, including oranges, greens, reds, blues, etc. 
  • Tropical themes in both garments and accessories
  • Cowboy hats 
    • Often styled with tropical fake flowers like hibiscuses and plumerias 
  • White highlighting of the brow bone and namidabukuro 
  • Brows with a notable arch 
  • Wooden platforms 
  • Wicker or woven bags 
  • Silver Jewelry 
  • Stickers and gems used near the eyes (as part of the makeup look)
  • Lanyards holding their cellphones and styled with various keychains and fake flowers 
  • Square-shaped nails 

Cute Hello Kitty Kaoani