Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts

my co*des: spring in winter

I'm not really someone who makes New Year's resolutions. Not because I don't believe in the concept, I'm just of the mind that self-growth can occur at any time. That being said, I do see how a new year is prime time for fresh starts and self-reflection. 

My goals are the same as they always are: to have more experiences. Try more things. Do things imperfectly, but do them. What follows is a showcase of that exact principle. 

I feel very strongly about fashion, and have collected so many wonderful pieces over the years. And yet, I've seldom shown them off. 

Let's change that, yeah? 

── ⟢ ・⸝⸝

OUTFIT DETAILS

coat: dELiAs
top: alba rosa
bottoms: roxy
boots: el dantes


I've noticed that the shorts + sweater combo was a pretty prevalent one back in the heyday of old school gal. Hot pants were worn alllllllll year long. 

In fact, I think this is one of the easiest formulas for an old school coordinate: shorts + sweater top + chunky boots. 

The coat—though cute—is mere salad dressing. It's not doing a heck of a lot to keep me warm. It's a good thing that Tokyo winters are mild. 


The boots, El Dantes from the 90s, are one of my most prized possessions. I found them on Mercari JP in the アムラ(a colloquialism for the street style inspired by Namie Amuro) tag, which checks out since El Dantes were purportedly Namie-chan's favorite brand of platforms.

They are in exceptional condition, a credit to both their previous owner and the sheer durability of the boot itself. They are beautifully made! It's rare to source genuine 90s shoes due to the fact that they were, by and large, made with synthetic components and have long succumbed to dry rot. 

It's this reason (or at least this is my hypothesis) why all those stunning platforms from iconic old school brands like IDOL and Question Mark are largely absent from the secondhand market. 


Funnily enough, the photos you are now seeing are not the first I took. The first set had to be canned because my zipper was down in. Every. Single. One. ( ̄▽ ̄||)


The coat is very 90s-does-70s. 

I love seeing the 60s and 70s inspiration in old school gyaru, especially as someone who used to dress almost exclusively in 70s vintage. I have a soft spot for that era of fashion. It's so fun and warm. 


Can we get a little commotion for the calves?? I love the way platforms make my legs look. 


This is more or less my go-to make. Blue shadow, shimmery white up to the brow, and a touch of white liner underneath. The lipstick isn't expressly gyaru. It's more general 90s, but I thought it looked nice. 

I used my summer foundation, but my face still looks pretty pale. Paler than I'd like for old school. I've transitioned back to solely using tanning lotions after putting the beds behind me, and it's taking a bit of time to build a natural-looking "glow." 


This was my inspiration, primarily for the silhouette: high-neck sweater  + shorts + coat + platform boots.

shibuya 1999: a fashion study - part 2

Gal fashion certainly didn't reflect the traditional image of a Japanese woman: moralistic, faithful and a good wife and wise mother. At the same time, their style was far from what most men would expect of their romantic or sexual partner. - Yusuke Arai, social anthropologist 

As you'll know from my previous fashion study post, we're making our way through Mike Nogami and Masami Takahashi's photography book Shibuya 1999 and breaking down the coordinates inside. This is part two.

Well, let's not waste any time. Class is in session! 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Magenta tank top. Black a-line skirt. White belt with circle buckle. Three navy, sparkly jelly-looking bangles, two beaded bracelets, and a silver watch. Suede camel platform (stacked) boots. Yellow bag. Butterfly hair clips. 

MAKE

Black eyeliner. Dark shadow on lid. White highlighting brow bone and namidabukuro. Nude lip. 

HAIR

Bleach blonde hair. Long side bangs. Shoulder length. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Tan belted dress. Wicker bag. Two silver necklaces. Silver and black bracelets. Tall black (looks like hosiery) socks. Black strappy sandals. 

MAKE

White shadow up to brow bone and highlighting namidabukuro. Dark shadow on lid. Nude lip. 

HAIR

Brown hair with blonde highlights. Side part. Layered. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Black, v-neck t-shirt. Green skort. Layered necklaces (silver cross, wooden beads in two sizes). Black cowboy hat accessorized with a multicolored lei. Black sunglasses tucked into the t-shirt. Red and white wicker bag. Black belt with bedazzled buckle hung lowly on hips (over top of the shirt). Dark brown stacked boots with a raised line design on the platform. 

MAKE

Bright white (looks like a cream product instead of a shadow) on namidabukuro. Silverish shadow on brow bone. Silver gem near edge of left eye. White lip. 

HAIR

Baby blonde hair with layered, fluffy curls.



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

On the left: Camel cowboy hat. Yellow bottle-neck knit top with (what looks like) a plumeria (across bust) and leaf (near bottom hem) design. Knee-length a-line black skirt. Dark denim jacket tied around waist. Louis Vuitton backpack. Black suede stacked platform boots.

On the right: Alba Rosa yellow bottle-neck knit top. Dark brown (or black, it's a bit hard to tell) corduroy shorts. Camel stacked platform boots with fur lining. Barrette. 

MAKE

Both girls seem to be donning the classic ganguro make style of the time: white on brow bone and namidabukuro, dark lid, mascara, nude lip. 

HAIR

On the left: Bleach blonde hair with flipped-up ends.

On the right: Bleach blonde hair tied back in a low ponytail. Long side bangs. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Yellow tank top with white straps and hemming. Camel corduroy skirt. Thigh high black socks. Black platform sneakers. Yellow and green jelly-like bangles. Yellow and green beaded bracelets. Two layered necklaces with feather pendants. Butterfly clip in hair. 

MAKE

Shadow (I'm assuming) on lid. Subtle white on namidabukuro. 

HAIR

Black layered hair. Middle part.



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Crochet striped white and yellow tank top. Green a-line skirt. Layered kukui necklaces. Backpack. Camel stacked lace-up platform boots with black socks peeking out over the top. 

MAKE

Black eyeliner with a very subtle wing. White (I think it's leaning towards silver) on namidabukuro and brow bone. White lip. Silver gem at the edge of one eye. 

HAIR

Bleached silvery blonde hair with fringe. Layered. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Red and white striped Egoist bottle-neck knit top. Off white a-line mini skirt. Silver and blue bangles. Silver rhinestoned cross necklace. Black platform boots. Louis Vuitton purse. 

MAKE

Silverish-white shadow up to the brow. Mauve brown lip. 

HAIR

Brown highlighted hair. Side part. Light curls. 



CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

On the left: Black bustier-style tank top. Black button-up a-line skirt. Leopard print cowboy hat. Louis Vuitton purse. Silver bangles. Black platform boots with socks poking out (the socks look like they might be fishnet with a lacy top hem). Silver cross necklace. Silver rings. 

On the right: Camel cowboy hat. Flouncy off-white tank top. Denim mini a-line skirt. Dark brown platform lace-up boots. Yellow purse. 

MAKE

Both girls are wearing very similar make: Silver eyeshadow up to the brow, mascara, nude and shimmery lip. They are both wearing blue contacts. 

HAIR

Both girls are sporting similar hair colors: brown with blonde highlights. The girl on the right has hers in two low twin tails. 


CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

High-neck zebra tank top. Red a-line mini skirt. Layered necklaces (one looks like simple silver and the other has a red feather charm). Stack of silver bangles. Blue beaded bracelets. Watch. Silver earrings. Black platform boots. Square-shaped nails with silver french type and sparkly ombre. Silver rings. 

MAKE

Cole eyeliner. Dark blue shadow on the lid. Silverish white shadow up to the brow bone and on the namidabukuro. 

HAIR

Long bleach blonde hair with side bangs. Curled ends. 



We're obviously going to see many repeat stylings in this series. You can find a more comprehensive list at the end of part 1. However, I don't want to repeat myself here, so this review will focus more on the composition of these outfits. 

A very common outfit formula (and particularly for this set of lovely gals) is this: tank top or bottle-neck knit top + a-line mini skirt + platforms

The most varied part tends to be in accessories, where each gal has their own collection, which I love. It really adds a personal touch to each coordinate. Silver does tend to be a favored metal, and those jelly-colored bangles are also a go-to.

shibuya 1999: a fashion study - part 1

 
At first glance, gal fashion may seem like an imitation of its Western counterparts, but at the core of this movement was the motivation to dress like people who were far less distant: Shibuya 109's charismatic shop staff, magazine models, and domestic musicians. Yusuke Arai, social anthropologist, pg 8

A cursory scan of my blog will undoubtedly reveal a deluge of 90s-era gyaru. Tan-skinned girls on towering platform boots with white-painted eyes. In summary: I'm an old-school ganguro who loves old-school ganguros.

As an old-school devotee and lifelong student of gyaru fashion, I am constantly hunting for primary sources. Recently, I came across the book Shibuya 1999, a collection of photographs of Shibuya residents from the late 90s. The majority of these residents are gals.

In the same spirit as my How To Be A Ganguro Girl post, I want to dive into Mike Nogami and Masami Takahashi's (collaboratively known as Clown) photography book to see what fashion insights we can extract. There are too many striking coordinates in the book, so I'll divide this into parts. This is part one. 

It is possible that at the end, I'll compile a compendium of everything we learned. A true fashion study review.

But for now, let's tackle today's coordinates. Class is in session!

CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Bright green shorts. Orange zip-up, short-sleeved hoodie (seems to be a soft, knitted fabric) with a green floral bikini top underneath. Straw cowboy hat with fake hibiscus flowers. Sandals with a cork or wood-like platform. Oval sunglasses hung from a puka shell necklace. lanyard with her cell phone attached. Glittery, square-shaped nails. Rings in silver and wood

MAKE

White eyeshadow all the way up to the brow bone and on the namidabukuro. Dark shadow. Mascara. Teardrop-shaped crystal stickers near the eyes. Nude lip. Brown brows

HAIR

Bleached hair in a sandy blonde. Short and layered. Parted to the side. 


CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Resort casual floral maxi dress. Layered necklaces with tropical themes, including shells and plumeria. Chunky purple bangle (with green and yellow accents). Silver rings. Cellphone on lanyard. White shoulder bag. Platform wood sandals with a woven strap.

MAKE

Deep tan foundation. White/silver highlighting brown bone and namidabukuro. Mascara. Eyeliner. White lip. Dark brows with an arch. It also looks like she's got some pronounced highlighter on her upper cheek, right near her eyes.

HAIR

Bleached hair in white-blonde. Styled in braided twin tails with pink hair bands. Side part.


CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Red casual dress. Woven bag styled with a red lei. Camel suede lace-up boots (I'm guessing they're from Question Mark or Idol). Sunglasses hung on the dress front. Layered necklaces in various materials (silver, wood, leather, etc). Silver bangles. Silver hoop earrings.

MAKE

Matte foundation. Blue contacts. Light pink (frosted) lips. Silverish-white eyeshadow up to brow bone and namidabukuro. It's unseen, but I'm sure she's wearing a dark eyeshadow and liner on the lid. Mascara. Dark, arched brows.

HAIR

Tea-brown hair. Layered, side part, worn straight.


CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Alba Rosa tank top. Terry cloth (that's my best guess) mini skirt in pink. Armbands in pink and white. Bangles. Hibiscus dangle earrings in the first hole and Native-inspired earrings in the second. Denim platform sandals with pink hibiscus designs. Layered necklaces. Straw cowboy hat decorated with fake flowers. Long, square-shaped nails. Some kind of flower accessory (I'm not certain what it is) attached to the front of her tank top. It also looks like she has her wallet or cell phone tucked in her bra.

MAKE

Tan, matte foundation. White shadow up to brow bone. Dark shadow on lid. Mascara. Fake lashes (top and bottom.) Gem stickers near eyes. Light lips. Dark brows.

HAIR

Bleached blonde hair. Cut to the shoulders. Worn straight.


CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Yellow tank top. White shorts. Sandals with a tall wood platform. Silver dog tag necklaces. Wooden bangles. Yellow and pink beaded bracelets. Thick white hoops. 

MAKE

Subtle (extremely subtle by usual ganguro standards) white on brow bone and namidabukuro. Silver star. stickers near one of her eyes. Brown brows.

HAIR

Bleached blonde hair in a yellowish shade. Shoulder length. Middle part. Front pieces of hair pulled back with pink clips.


CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Blue floral casual dress. Large shell (looks like white coral) necklace. Silver layered necklace with a variety of charms including a white scallop. Silver accessories including rings, bracelet, and watch. Mules with a wooden platform.

MAKE

Subtle white highlight on brow bone and namidabukuro. Arched brown brows. Light pink (so light it's almost undetectable) frosted lips.

HAIR

Bleached blonde hair. Side part. Layers.

CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Low-waisted, dark denim jeans with a slight flare at the bottom. Black tank top with yellow straps. Dangle earrings. Black cowboy hat. Cowrie shell armband. Red Alba Rosa knapsack with clear hibiscus clip. Dark wood platform sandals. Blue square-shaped nails.

MAKE

Deep tan foundation. White shadow on brow bone and namidabukuro. Arched, brown brows. 

HAIR

Tea-brown hair pulled back into a low ponytail. Middle part. Long, face-framing bangs.
 

CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES

Low-waisted, dark denim flare jeans. Off-white belt. Light orange polo tank top. Sandals with a dark wood platform. Long-layered necklaces, one being kukui and the other being transparent beads. Wicker bag with tropical flower accents. Beaded bracelets.

MAKE

Subtle white shadow on brow bone and namidabukuro. Tan, matte complexion.

HAIR

Honey blonde hair. Layered. Middle part. Worn straight.


When doing these studies, I constantly look for recurrent fashion elements. This makes it easier to determine what is most "gyaru" about these coordinates. 

KEY NOTES

  • Tan complexion 
    • Foundation is typically dark and matte
  • Bleached, layered hair (in various shades ranging from very white blonde to light tea brown) 
    • Side parts were favored by many ganguro at the time
  • Clothing in a bright color palette, including oranges, greens, reds, blues, etc. 
  • Tropical themes in both garments and accessories
  • Cowboy hats 
    • Often styled with tropical fake flowers like hibiscuses and plumerias 
  • White highlighting of the brow bone and namidabukuro 
  • Brows with a notable arch 
  • Wooden platforms 
  • Wicker or woven bags 
  • Silver Jewelry 
  • Stickers and gems used near the eyes (as part of the makeup look)
  • Lanyards holding their cellphones and styled with various keychains and fake flowers 
  • Square-shaped nails 

Fashion Snapshot: Masamegu and Buriteri in Egg All Stars

I once heard someone refer to getting dressed as an art. I totally agree. Not only is it an art, it's an ongoing practice. It's something I constantly work at. I'm an eternal student of gyaru fashion. 

I believe breaking down coordinates from Gal mags is the best "studying" one can do as a gyaru. Newbie or veteran. 

When I first started, I often asked myself whether my outfits "read" as gyaru. I think it's something that every gal experiences at some point in their journey. Understanding gyaru fashion is critical for feeling confident in your outfit's "gyaru-ness," and studying coordinates in gal mags and other primary sources is an excellent method to accomplish this.

I don't mean a casual browse. You should spend a lot of time examining the coordinates you like and working out what makes them gyaru. That might be the garment itself, the colors, the silhouettes, or how it complements the rest of the gal's appearance.
 
Today, we'll be looking at and breaking down this spread featuring Masamegu and Buriteri from Egg's All-Stars edition. 


Let's start with Masamegu-san's coordinate. (๑*ᗜ*)

The basic breakdown: 
  • Pink mid-to-high waisted jeans
  • Brown belt with silver buckle
  • Pink tube top 
  • Platform sandals (with pink accents)
  • Silver bangles, necklaces and rings
  • 1960s mod-style pink earrings 
The key "gyaru" points here are the use of a tropical motif (the hibiscus belt buckle), a bright color (pink), and platform sandals. 

Masamegu is wearing Alba Rosa, which is such a well-known gyaru brand that simply wearing their clothing is usually enough to identify you as gal. Alba Rosa's iconic status as a Gyaru Brand (capital G.B.) stems from its utilization of tropical and Hawaiian motifs, which are profoundly embedded in many gyaru substyles. With that in mind, you don't need to own any Alba Rosa to achieve this vibe. Often, a well-placed plumeria will suffice. 

To recreate this coordinate, I would start with a pair of jeans and a blouse in matching vibrant colors. Masamegu is wearing a monochrome outfit. While hers is pink, you can produce a similar effect through any number of vivid colors: yellow, orange, lime green, Icee blue... you name it. The great thing about Gyaru is that it has a broad palette. Notably, her top is a shade or two darker than her trousers. It can be difficult to find exact color matches with separate pieces, so creating depth and contrast with different shades of the same color can keep it cohesive while still achieving that monochromatic vibe.




Take note of the shape and style of her top and jeans. She's wearing a tube top with what looks like higher-waisted, straight-legged trousers. If you're not a fan of the monochromatic look, you can achieve this coordinate through form instead by pairing a tube top with straight jeans and a neutral-colored belt. Also, keep in mind where the hem of the top falls: right above the belt. Where a garment falls can also drastically alter the feel of an ensemble. 

Masamegu's accessories are typical for any ganguro coordinate: silver bangles, rings, and layered necklaces. In this case, the accessories aren't the outfit's focal point, so you can wear just about any accessory—as long as it doesn't draw attention away from the main point of the outfit. We're trying to maintain the coordinate's visual rhythm. 

Let's talk about the shoes. Platforms are pretty standard for any Ganguro fit. In my opinion, the most crucial aspect of the sandals (as they pertain to this coordinate) is their height. Jeans are very forgiving; you can pair them with almost any type of shoe. However, the platform is such a quintessential component of a ganguro outfit that it goes a long way to help the overall coordinate read as gyaru. 


Now, let's do Buriteri's. (˵ •̀ ᴗ •́ ˵ ) ✧ 

  • Blue polo
  • Pink skort/shorts
  • Platform sneakers
  • Scrunch socks 
  • Silver bangles 
  • Oval sunglasses 
Buriteri's coordinate exudes casual sportiness. The shorts have an intriguing shape, but I believe a similar look can be accomplished with ordinary shorts or a skort. I think a tennis skirt would work just as well.

The outfit appears to be very soft and breathable. None of the fabrics look too constrictive or tight. Also, notice how she has the polo collar popped up, which provides another layer of casualness to what could otherwise be a more "uptight" garment. The sunglasses tucked inside the collar contribute to the overall feel. There's a hint of country club vacation here, but with a Gyaru twist. 

The light blue and pink combination is fun and gels well. When putting together a similar fit, consider complementary or triadic shades and avoid skewing too dark. The lighter colors keep the overall look fresh and airy. 



Consider pairing a pastel yellow with an electric blue or a tropical indigo. 


A light green can be paired with this orchid shade (which I just learned is called Hibiscus Pop. How cute is that???)

Moving down, we see Buriteri in scrunch socks (a Kogal staple) and platform sneakers. Notably, the sneakers are from the now-defunct brand Question Mark. Unfortunately, there do not appear to be many reproductions of this style of sneaker. Its shape and design are quite unique. However, the most important aspects here are the socks (which can be purchased on Amazon) and the shoe's chunkiness. Pairing scrunch socks with a chunky sneaker will achieve a similar aesthetic. 



Great work, everyone! ᕦ(ò_óˇ)ᕤ

I hope this breakdown helps you assemble some fantastic coordinates. 

I do want to add a slight disclaimer. While clothing is integral to gyaru, it's not the be-all-end-all. Depending on which substyle you ascribe to, there are a variety of components that come together in a sort of gem fusion to create the entire gyaru look. 

In the case of Masamegu and Buriteri, they are old-school ganguro and, as such, have deep tans and bleached hair. Without those elements, I doubt their outfits would look as gyaru as they do. It's a balance. 

Keep that in mind as you style yourself. You got this. ♡