The following is a translation (Japanese to English) of an article from the 2000 edition of a magazine called 化粧文化 (Cosmetic Culture). It interviews a group of high school ganguros.
On the Trend of Skin Color
Interviewing High School Students Who Do "Ganguro"
The "Ganguro" style, characterized by dark skin and light hair, became a media sensation last year, especially on TV. Though it seems to be fading now, this style, which goes against conventional beauty standards, has drawn significant attention. Why did it become so popular, even if only temporarily? And what will happen to it in the future?
To uncover the mystery, we gathered seven high school girls who actually wear Ganguro makeup—A, B, and C (3rd-year students from X High School), D, E, and F (2nd-year students from Y High School), and G (2nd-year student from Z High School)—to ask about their usual makeup and fashion choices.
*Ganguro Gyaru: 7 Girls
When and Why Did You Start Doing "Ganguro"?
Editor: Lately, "Ganguro" has been a hot topic in newspapers and on TV, right? But what exactly does "Ganguro" mean?
E: It means your face is really dark.
F: Super dark.
E: "Gonguro" is even darker than "Ganguro." "Gon" means "super" dark.
Editor: So, who among you is the darkest?
E: "Super dark"? Well, when I look at my own face, I get used to it and start thinking it looks lighter. I don’t even know what "dark" means anymore. But D is quite dark—though "Gon" would be even darker.
A: The three of us (A, B, and C) aren’t that dark.
Editor: How long have you all been doing this makeup and fashion style?
A: Since I entered high school. It’s been about three years now.
B: Since my third year of middle school.
C: Since entering high school.
Editor: So, has "Ganguro" been popular for about three years? Why did everyone start choosing this style?
A: I don’t really remember. It wasn’t something that started suddenly. It just kind of happened… At first, it started with the hair, and then, little by little, the face and everything else followed. It’s not like we did it all at once. We just gradually adapted to our surroundings, and before we knew it, we looked like this.
B: Back in middle school, I had light brown hair.
How Do People Around You React?
Editor: Do your family or classmates say anything about your style?
A: Well, we can’t wear makeup at school, so we only do it outside of school.
Editor: What about when you go out? Do your family members or parents say anything?
D: When I go home, my parents tell me, "Take off your makeup!" They say things like, "You look like a delinquent," or "You look like a TV personality," and they’re actually pretty serious about it.
E: My parents don’t say much anymore, but when I first started, they were really against it. They’d tell me, "Your hair is too light!" or "Your skin is too dark!"
A: At first, they really hated it. But now they’ve kind of given up. When I first started, my parents would raise their voices about it, but now they just let it be.
B: My parents used to complain, but now they’re used to it.
Editor: And what about your classmates?
E: At first, they used to say things, but now they’ve pretty much given up. They’ll comment on [my dark-skin and makeup] if they notice, but I just nod and let it pass.
G: My school is strict, so I don’t tan. I only do it when I go out to Shibuya during the holidays, but I do get some comments.
Editor: So, G is the only one here who only does it on weekends? Everyone else does it every day?
E: Doing makeup every day gets tiring, so sometimes I just don’t feel like it. There are days when I think, “Ugh, I can’t be bothered today,” and I go out without it. And then I end up running into people from my neighborhood.
Editor: By the way, what do your boyfriends think of your style?
A: It depends on the day—one day he says one thing, the next day he says another. I don’t even know what he really wants. When I dyed my hair brown, he said it was cute. Then when I dyed it white, he said that looked better.
Editor: So basically, he thinks both look cute. Does he ever say something like, “You should do this instead”?
A: Yeah, but even if I listen, I don’t necessarily do what he says. I just take it as advice.
Editor: What about you, B? Does your boyfriend say anything about your makeup?
B: Lately, he doesn’t like it. He keeps nagging me to dye my hair black. The funny thing is, he used to have white hair too, but now he says things like, “Gyaru is over,” and “You should go for a more mature look.” He tells me, “Make your skin lighter and dye your hair black again.” He even said that walking around with me in my current style is embarrassing. But like, who is he to say that to me?
Editor: But he still walks around with you, right?
B: Yeah, in my current style.
Editor: What kind of style does your boyfriend have?
B: Pretty similar to mine. He dyes his hair too.
C: My boyfriend has been nagging me to dye my hair brown lately. He used to have white hair, too, but now that he’s dyed it black, he wants me to do the same. He’s like, “I calmed down, so you should too.” It’s so self-centered.
E: I don’t have a boyfriend. I don’t like being tied down, so I’m fine without one. I mean, I do want one, but even if I get one, it doesn’t last, so there’s no point.
D: I have a “sort of” boyfriend. (laughs) I think we’re dating, but he keeps telling me to stop. He said I shouldn’t wear bright colors, shouldn’t wear makeup, and that I’m too dark. He told me, “You’re just too black.” He doesn’t want to date a gyaru.
Where Do You Hang Out?
Editor: Where do you usually go when you go out with your friends?
E: Shibuya.
D: Same here. When I go out, it’s always to Shibuya.
Editor: Shibuya’s kind of a must-go place for Ganguro, isn’t it?
E: Yeah, we usually hang out at places like 109 (Shibuya’s famous fashion mall).
A: I sometimes go to Ikebukuro, but mostly it’s Shibuya.
B: If you want to meet up with people like us, Shibuya is the place to be.
How Much Do You Spend on Makeup and Fashion?
Editor: Ganguro makeup and fashion seem to require quite a bit of spending. How much do you all spend?
A: I probably spend about 30,000 to 40,000 yen a month.
B: Yeah, about that much. Maybe more sometimes.
E: I get an allowance, but I also work part-time to buy what I want.
D: I usually spend my money on clothes and makeup, but sometimes I go to karaoke or game centers, too.
Editor: So, do you all have part-time jobs?
A: Not all of us, but some do.
C: I don’t work part-time but save up my allowance.
Do You Ever Get Tired of Ganguro?
Editor: Have you ever thought about quitting Ganguro and trying a different style?
A: Not really. I enjoy it, so I keep doing it.
B: But sometimes, I do feel like changing things up a bit.
D: I think it’s natural to want to try something new after a while.
E: Yeah, but even if I change my makeup a little, my core style doesn’t really change.
F: I might go lighter with my makeup, but I’ll never completely stop.
G: I think everyone finds their own way to express themselves. Some of us might change styles, but that’s just part of the process.
A: I think once we become a little more mature, we’ll settle down. I don’t think we’ll keep changing things so frequently.
E: Until you find your true self, you should do whatever you like. Once you find it, you can perfect it. You explore different versions of yourself, then return to your original self, then find another new version… If you stop doing that, you’ll become just another old lady. When you stop caring about anything, that’s when you know you’re getting old.
D: Rather than age, it’s about just not caring anymore… Like, you won’t even bother with makeup and just go to the supermarket barefaced. At that point, you’re no longer a woman.
Editor: So, at what age does someone stop being "a woman" in that sense?
D: It could be next year or even tomorrow. The moment you give up on being a woman, that’s when you become an old lady. It’s not an age thing; it’s a mindset.
A: I feel like I might already be at that point. Nothing feels fun anymore. Even when I go out, it’s boring. I don’t even feel like going to clubs anymore. It’s kind of bad… It’s not that I don’t have fun, but nothing excites me anymore. I used to have things that I was passionate about... Maybe I should start looking for something again.
The Rules at School and How They Work Around Them
Editor: You mentioned that your school doesn’t allow this style. What did you do?
C: I toned it down before entrance exams.
Editor: What about your middle school days?
C: Back then, I had light brown hair. Now, my tan is getting uneven, so I use foundation to make my face look darker. My body is still tanned, though.
Editor: D, you’re quite dark too. When did you start tanning?
D: After I entered high school. Once exams were over, I could do whatever I wanted, so I started tanning about once a week. But I can’t dye my hair brown because my school is strict. I can only do this for now…
F: I also started tanning after entering high school.
E: We’re not allowed to, but I still do it. During summer and winter breaks, I dye my hair, though the color fades after a while. When I become a third-year student, I’ll go back to normal because of entrance exams. The school basically bans Ganguro for students taking exams.
F: If we don’t follow the rules, it could ruin the school’s reputation, and students might not get accepted into universities. Apparently, some people even get rejected just because of the school’s image.
E: Yeah, people say things like, "It’s all your fault!"
Editor: G, you usually don’t wear makeup, don’t tan, and don’t dye your hair. But what do you do when you go to Shibuya?
G: I put on a wig, wear a hat, and use foundation to make my face darker.
Where Do You Go In Ganguro?
Editor: Where do you usually dress in full Ganguro style?
E: When I go to Shibuya’s Center Street and 109.
Editor: So you dress like this when you go to those places?
E: Yeah, we run around avoiding teachers and people who might report us while we hang out.
What’s Your Current Makeup Goal?
A: I want to change my hair color without worrying about school rules.
Editor: What’s the most crucial point of your current makeup?
A: Eye makeup.
B: Eye makeup. I also wear gray-colored contacts.
Editor: So eye makeup is the main focus for all of you? Are there any celebrities or models you’re trying to emulate?
E: Not really… (thinks for a moment) Maybe someone like Yuka.
D: My style has kind of drifted away from that, though.
A: I’ve never really thought about it. Since my school isn’t strict, I can do whatever I want.
How Common Is Ganguro?
Editor: Not many people dress like you, right?
E: Not at school, but if you go to Shibuya or Ikebukuro, there are many people like us. You see them all over the place. It makes you feel more at ease.
B: When everyone around you is dressed the same way, you blend in naturally.
A: Yeah, even if you’ve never met before, you can just start talking to each other like it’s normal.
Editor: So it’s comfortable for you?
(Everyone nods in agreement.)
Is Ganguro Just a Phase in Self-Discovery?
Editor: Earlier, B mentioned wanting a more mature look—lighter skin and darker hair. What do you all think? Do you plan to keep this style forever, or do you think you’ll change eventually?
A: If I get bored, I’ll change. I actually went back to lighter skin once. I stopped tanning for a while.
Editor: So, right now, you’re doing this style, but that doesn’t mean you’ll keep it forever? What about after graduation?
A: I don’t know. It depends on how I feel at the time. If I get bored, I’ll quit. But even if I go lighter, I’ll probably get bored of that too and go back. It’s just a cycle.
B: It costs money.
A: It’s not that I’m super attached to this look. If I feel like changing, I’ll change again.
Spending Habits and Allowance
A: ...Going to the salon to dye your hair costs about 15,000 yen each time. And it’s not like I go every month. My hair has just been growing out like crazy. But I’m going this month.
Editor: B, you always seem to take good care of your hair.
B: It’s not that I’m always maintaining it, it just doesn’t change much since it doesn’t grow that fast.
C: Yeah, each time I go, it costs around 15,000 yen too. I wait until I can’t take it anymore before going to the salon. I’m actually going this Friday.
Editor: D, how about you? Do you spend a lot on makeup and fashion?
D: I spend the most money on going out. More than clothes, I spend a lot on just hanging out after school. I don’t even realize how much I’m spending until I check my wallet.
E: Yeah, I don’t even know where my money goes. I spend it on karaoke, purikura (photo booths), and cute little things.
Editor: So you all go out shopping regularly within your usual areas? Do you plan days to meet up as a group?
A: I don’t like big groups. I don’t really have many friends—just this group.
B & C: (laughs)
Editor: So, it’s mostly just the three of you? Do other people ever join in?
A: It’s too much of a hassle…
Editor: Does your group have a leader?
(All three laugh.)
B & A: It’s A, right?
Editor: But when deciding where to go, do you all just talk and figure it out together?
A: Yeah, we just go, “What should we do today?” and decide from there.
Editor: What about new makeup products? Do you discover them individually or share information with each other?
A: We don’t really talk about that kind of stuff.
Editor: Where else do you usually go?
E: Before my shift, I eat with my coworkers from my part-time job. I hand out flyers for work. The pay is 1,000 yen an hour, but the shifts are short.
Editor: So when you all decide to go out somewhere, how does that work?
A: It just depends on where people want to go. If someone suggests a place, the rest of us usually agree.
Editor: So you all need a good amount of spending money. Do you all have part-time jobs?
E: I don’t. My allowance isn’t enough, but somehow I make it work.
Reactions from Family and School
Editor: You’re not allowed to wear makeup at school, right?
A: Not really, but we do anyway. I don’t have time in the morning, so I do my makeup at school.
Editor: Have your families seen your style? What did your parents say when you first started?
A: They said I looked cuter with lighter skin… But recently, their opinions have changed.
B: At first, they hated it. Now, they’ve given up.
C: When I had highlights and white hair, they used to complain. But now, they don’t say much.
Editor: But even when they do say something, none of you quit?
(Everyone falls silent.)
D: When I get home, my parents call me a "monster." They even compare me to "Devilman." They’re actually serious about it.
After the Roundtable Discussion
Many of the girls told us that they started doing Ganguro because they wanted to blend in with their surroundings. "Wearing the same style makes it easier to fit in." Those who expected a bold, "I want to stand out and be flashy!" response might be surprised.
Some shop almost every day. Others say, "I’d like a boyfriend, but even if I get one, it doesn’t last, so I don’t really need one." A pattern emerges: they turn to fashion and makeup to fill the emptiness in their hearts when they feel like there’s nothing fun in their lives.
They tan their skin aggressively at tanning salons, but it doesn’t seem like they’re aiming for the "healthy" image that tanned skin is often associated with. It seems that they are dissatisfied with their current lives, emotionally exhausted, and despite being young, they feel like they’ve already lived for years. It’s as if they are fed up with themselves, and those emotions manifest in their hair and makeup.
One girl mentioned, "My boyfriend told me, ‘I dyed my hair black, so you should, too.’" But she responded, "Just because you’ve calmed down doesn’t mean I have to."
Will these girls eventually return to more "normal" styles once they find real satisfaction? Perhaps their journey of self-discovery has only just begun.
Reflections on Ganguro Culture
After talking with these high schoolers, it’s clear that Ganguro isn’t just about following a trend—it’s a form of self-expression. For them, it’s about enjoying fashion and makeup while navigating the challenges of adolescence. Some will eventually move on to new styles, while others may continue to embrace Ganguro.
One thing is sure: for these girls, Ganguro isn’t just a rebellious phase—it’s a fun and meaningful part of their lives.
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