Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts

the ganguro starter pack: the ultimate guide to old school gyaru


Old-school gyaru is a broad and somewhat nebulous term. It generally describes a period of gyaru that extends from the 90s to about 2008, defined by tan skin, bleached hair, and a bold yet comparatively 'natural' makeup look contrasted to what came later. 

Ganguro, much like the burgeoning kogals of the 80s, were the foundation from which all other gyaru substyles evolved. 

This is my favorite period of gyaru, and I’ve spent a lot of time researching its attitude, fashion, and cultural impact. I wanted to make a starter kit for Ganguro, not as an expert but as someone who loves the style and wears it daily. This is by no means a definitive guide to gyaru, but I hope it serves as a launching pad for anyone interested in Ganguro. 

Glossary

  • Ganguro (ガングロ) – A gyaru substyle featuring a deep tan, bleached hair, and bold white makeup.
  • Gonguro (ゴングロ) – A more extreme version of ganguro with an even darker tan, usually achieved using makeup and tanning lotions.
  • Yamanba (ヤマンバ) & Manba (マンバ) – Later, exaggerated variations of ganguro that introduced more intense colors and makeup. 
  • Shibuya 109 (渋谷109) – The shopping mall in Tokyo that was the center of gyaru fashion, colloquially referred to as Marukyu (マルキュー).
  • Teamer (チーマー) – A delinquent subculture in Japan during the 80s and 90s, often associated with gangs and rebellious youth. Many early gyaru dated Teamers.
  • Para Para (パラパラ) – A synchronized dance style popular among gyaru, often performed to Eurobeat music in clubs.
  • Shiro gyaru (白ギャル) – The opposite of ganguro; a gyaru style that does not involve tanning and instead emphasizes fair skin. Substyles like himekaji and rokku gyaru do not require tanning. 
  • Gyaru-kei (ギャル系) – A broad term referring to gyaru fashion and all its substyles.


The History of Ganguro

Origins

Gyaru can be traced back to the late 70s and 80s in Japan, when wealthy school girls developed an interest in luxury Western fashion. They purchased items from Burberry and Louis Vuitton, rolled up their uniform skirts, and wore slouched socks. Many were the girlfriends of delinquent Japanese Teamers. By the time ganguro came around in the 90s, the style expanded beyond the upper echelon and became more associated with the middle-class, with girls from varying income levels participating in the style. 

Ganguro was a hodgepodge of influences, both real and imagined: California beach culture, Amuraa fashion, and a teenage-led rebellion against Japan's traditional beauty standards. The tanned skin and bleached hair evoked Malibu surfers, but it also reflected the broader trend in Japan at the time, which, thanks to the popularity of TV dramas like Beach Boys, cemented the casual "beachy" look in the cultural zeitgeist. 
  • Ganguro’s roots trace back to kogal, which emphasized loose socks, modified schoolgirl uniforms, and a carefree attitude.
  • The aesthetic was heavily influenced by the coordinates of Shibuya 109 Charisma shop clerks, the idealized perception of California beach culture, Western hip-hop celebrity style, and Japanese (Okinawan) singer Namie Amuro.
  • Egg magazine played a crucial role in promoting ganguro, featuring models like Buriteri, who, among others, defined the subculture’s attitude and style.
  • The style was most active from the mid-90s to the early 2000s, with variations and substyles like Yamanba and Kuro taking over in later years.

Lifestyle and Community

Ganguro, primarily middle-class teens and young adults, often congregated in Ikebukuro and Shibuya, especially around the iconic Shibuya 109 (Marukyu) mall. They went shopping, attended Para Para dance clubs, did karaoke, took PuriKura photos, and socialized with their friends. 

This subculture emphasized fun, friendship, and a vibrant social life. It was all about being true to yourself and not letting the bastards get you down. 


How Is Ganguro Different from Other Gyaru Substyles?

Most people today associate gyaru with heavily exaggerated makeup styles (notably the iconic "tarume" or droop), but old-school ganguro was more restrained by comparison.

  • The key point is NOT the droop eyeliner shape.
    • Unlike later gyaru substyles, early ganguro makeup focused more on white eyeshadow and simple eyeliner rather than an exaggerated shape.
  • It was largely tied to mainstream Tokyo trends.
    • Old-school ganguro fashion was still closely linked to trends that were popular among teens and young adults at the time. Shibuya 109 brands and Louis Vuitton bags were widespread. 
  • It is the progenitor of many later gyaru styles.
    • You can see the beginnings of many modern gyaru substyles in early ganguro.
  • It was subtle (by today’s standards).
    • Compared to current gyaru styles, old-school ganguro looked more "natural." At the time, it was considered bold. 


Fashion

Signature Brands (Shibuya 109 stores)

  • Alba Rosa
  • Cocolulu
  • MeJane
  • Egoist
  • Blue Moon Blue
  • Roco Nails
  • Jassie
  • Cecil McBee
  • Love Boat
  • Idol

How to Shop for Ganguro Today

Since most old-school gyaru brands are extinct (with the exception of Egoist, who no longer makes Ganguro clothing), focus on silhouettes and colors rather than specific labels. Look for:

  • A-line skirts, mock neck tops, summer knits, casual resort wear, and stacked platform boots.
  • Bright primary colors like oranges, yellows, and greens; bold and fun patterns. 
  • Mercari Japan and Yahoo Auctions can be used to track down old brands, although the prices can be steep and the sizing uninclusive.
  • Thrift stores are a great place to start. 

Accessories

  • Platform shoes: Chunky sneakers (Buffalo and Question Mark were favored brands), wedge sandals, platform boots.
  • Bracelets & rings: Silver, colorful, and stacked in excess.
  • Hibiscus everything: evocative of Alba Rosa.
  • Fake nails: Not yet extreme in this period; they were mostly square-shaped, shorter, and simple compared to modern styles favored by substyles like Kuro/Tsuyome.


Hair and Makeup

Hair

  • Bleached blonde, silver, honey brown, orange that skewed blonde, and caramel tones were most common. Visible dark roots were accepted and, for many of the girls at the time, unavoidable. 
  • Hair was typically straight with soft volume, though some girls opted for crimped, flipped-out, or lightly textured styles.
  • At this point, hair was nowhere near as long as it came to be in later gyaru substyles. Most girls had their hair chopped at the shoulders.

Makeup

  • A tan is the defining feature of ganguro. Nearly all other aspects of the look (the white eyeshadow, light lips, and bleached hair) are meant to enhance and emphasize the tan. However, this does not mean you should go as dark as possible. Stay within what is appropriate for your own skin tone. Do not darken your skin in a way that could be considered offensive (i.e. blackface).
  • White eyeshadow/highlighter: The most defining element of ganguro makeup (aside from the tan), applied heavily on the brow bone and under the eyes.
  • Dark eyeliner: Bold but straightforward, following the natural lash line.

  • False lashes:

    • Fluffy, Western-style lashes were the norm.
    • Spiky "manga-style" lashes became popular in later gyaru substyles.
    • Some ganguro didn't wear false lashes at all. 

  • Lips: 

    Most ganguro tried to de-emphasize the lips.
    • If lips were emphasized at all, it was with very light or white lipstick.


Evolution and Personal Expression

Ganguro style wasn't static. It evolved naturally over time. While some adhered strictly to the core aesthetics, many experimented with variations, reflecting their individual tastes and the deeply personal nature of the subculture. It was due to these experimentations that other iconic substyles (like Yamanba and Kuro/Tsuyome) were born. 

Even during Ganguro's peak, many versions of the style coexisted. Some girls went for a more sporty, Jassie-inspired variation. Others leaned toward sexy. Some went beachy. Don't be afraid to mix and match.


Common Misconceptions About Ganguro

“Ganguro is just blackface.” 
Ganguro is not blackface; it was never intended to mimic or mock Black people. The tan was meant to reflect a California beach-girl aesthetic and to go against the expectation for "paleness" in women. However, it’s important to acknowledge that some individuals at the time did take it a bit too far. For example, according to the book Japanese School Girl Inferno, Egg model Buriteri allegedly used a foundation that was intended for Black women to achieve her look. While this is worth discussing, the style itself was not created with racist intent, nor is it racist when done appropriately within the natural range of one's own skin tone.

“Ganguro makeup was meant to look Western or imitate white people.”
This is a common misunderstanding. Ganguro was inspired by California beach culture, but it was never about trying to look white. The tan, white-accented makeup and overall aesthetic were stylized and exaggerated in a way that made ganguro distinctly Japanese rather than a direct imitation of any Western look.

"Ganguro is a dead substyle."

While ganguro is no longer as mainstream as it was in the 90s and early 2000s, it never truly disappeared. Additionally, ganguro’s influence can still be seen in later gyaru substyles like manba, banba, and kuro, which boldened many of ganguro's aesthetics. 

"Ganguro is no longer recognizably gyaru."

Some people claim that ganguro doesn’t "look gyaru enough" by today’s standards (especially when worn by non-Japanese gyaru), but this ignores the fact that ganguro was a defining part of early gyaru history. Modern gyaru has changed over time, but ganguro still follows the same core gyaru principles: rebellion against traditional beauty norms, exaggerated styling, and a strong sense of individuality. The shift in trends doesn’t erase ganguro’s place in gyaru culture.

Getting Started

Getting into old-school gyaru, particularly ganguro, can feel overwhelming at first, but breaking it down into steps makes it much more approachable. Instead of focusing on achieving perfection right away, start with the core elements and build your look over time. That’s how the original Ganguro did it.  

Step 1: Focus on Key Elements

Start with the most recognizable aspects of ganguro:

  • Tanning: Whether through bronzer, self-tanner, or a safe tanning method, the tan is the foundation of the look.
  • White eyeshadow & dark eyeliner
  • Casual, beach-inspired fashion, a-line skirts, bright tops, platform shoes.
  • Confidence and attitude: Ganguro was as much about mindset as it was about fashion.

Step 2: Build Your Wardrobe Gradually

You don’t need to own an entire old-school gyaru closet overnight! Focus on:

  • Basic pieces: Emulate common and popular silhouettes.
  • Colors and patterns: Look for bright oranges, yellows, greens, hibiscus prints, and fun patterns.
  • Thrift stores and secondhand apps: Mercari Japan, Yahoo Auctions, and local thrift shops can help you find ganguro-inspired pieces.

Step 3: Simplify Your Hair & Makeup

  • Hair: Start with a bleached color of your liking. Blonde, honey brown, or silver tones. Shoulder-length styles were common.
  • Makeup: The essentials are white eyeshadow, tan and matte foundation, dark eyeliner, fluffy lashes, and pale lips. Keep it bold but simple.

Step 4: Find Community & Inspiration

  • Look through old magazines and gyaru blogs to study actual ganguro outfits.
  • Watch Japanese media from the time period to get a feel for the era.
  • Find like-minded individuals (Like me! Hey!)

Step 5: Embrace the Gyaru Mindset

  • Confidence is key. Own your look, and don’t be afraid to stand out.
  • Ganguro challenged beauty norms and emphasized self-expression. Be unapologetically you. 
  • Deepen your friendships, share makeup tips, and take care of each other. 

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HOW TO BE A GANGURO GIRL

"The elevators [of Shibuya 109] are thronged with colorfully dressed Gals, their hair shades of orange or blonde, or covered in floppy hats and hair pieces, their white-painted eyes peering out of brown skin. Strange walking dolls."   Kate Klippensteen, page 132 

WHAT IS A GANGURO?

Dark tans, flashy makeup, and bleached hair. The word ganguro (ガングロ) describes an early substyle of gyaru that existed from the mid-90s to about 2008 (as estimated by Kubo Yuka in her book The Last Moments of the Ganguro Tribe: A Study of Gyaru Culture). They were inspired by American fashion, notably California surf culture, but by the 1990s, they evolved into something uniquely Japanese.

These ganguro were largely middle-class teens and twenty-somethings with disposable income. They hung out in Shibuya, shopped at Shibuya 109 (Marukyu), frequented Para Para dance clubs and Karaoke booths, ate fast food, and gabbed with like-minded friends. They had fun. 

In 2000, Tokyo-based writer Kate Klippensteen and photographer Everett Kennedy Brown collaborated on a book called Ganguro Girls. The book includes images of real-life Ganguro, a small questionnaire filled out by each of the girls, and brief but astute blurbs about the subculture by Klippensteen. It's an intimate snapshot of this short-lived (and my personal favorite) period of gyaru. 

A lot can be learned from these primary sources. Let's dig in and see what we can find...

My copy of Ganguro Girls


THE LOOK

"Ganguro Gals reminded me of drag queens, anime heroines, messed up Barbie dolls..."  Kate Klippensteen, page 5 


  • Bleached hair in blonde, tea-brown (a trendy color among Amura), silver and orange
  • Floppy hats
  • Hair pieces and wigs (a lifesaver if you don't want to bleach your hair)
  • Long side bangs clipped with bobby pins and barrettes 
  • Straightened bangs paired with textured/teased out/wavy hair


    • Black or blue (and sometimes silver or dark purple) eyeshadow on the lid
    • White shadow or a soft, workable liner that highlights the brow bone and aegyo sal 
    • Thinner eyebrows with a defined arch 
    • False upper eyelashes (at the time, lower falsies weren't particularly popular, and natural lower lashes were defined with black mascara)
    • White or frosted lips 


    A tan is essential to ganguro. 

    It can be achieved at a tanning salon or by layering self-tan lotions. This is where the distinction between the terms ganguro and gonguro originated. Ganguro was used for a gal who tanned naturally (via sun beds or beach trips), and gonguro were those who used lotions. 

    These days, the term gonguro isn't really used, and if it is, it's interchangeable with ganguro.


    • Ten to twelve-inch platform boots in white, pink, black, or brown. 

    • Or equally tall wooden platform sandals.
      * Sandals and boots can be worn as is or paired with long socks (typically black, although it wasn't uncommon to match the color to another element of your coordinate)
      • Chunky sneakers paired with scrunch socks or leg warmers (typically white)
      • Tennis, baby doll, and shift dresses in bright colors and soft materials 
      • Denim jackets
      • Straight mini skirts or knee-length skirts with tropical, silk-printed motifs (often from brands like Alba Rosa and MeJane)
      • Polo shirts, tank tops, and t-shirts with logos from coveted Marukyu labels. 
      • Shorts 
        • Denim
        • Bright, solid colors
        • Floral (tropical)
      • Outwear like hoodies, parkas, and trench coats in vibrant, primary colors 
        • Long black leather and denim coats were also popular

      Of course, this doesn't cover everything, but these were some of the items I noticed repeated in the book. One thing's for sure: ganguro is colorful.  

      "We are bright, not just on the surface but also deep inside." - Hitomi, featured on pages 56 and 57


      • Colorful nails
        • In the mid to late 90s (and the very early 2000s), nails weren't nearly as long or decorated as what became standard for many kuro gyaru in the following years. 
        • You'll notice that many of the girls wear their nails naturally or with simple polish. This is most likely because many were high school students and had to follow a dress code. 
      • Wooden bauble necklaces and bracelets 
      • Bangles in silver (gold and colors are also seen)
      • Small oval (very 90s) sunglasses or rounded, white 60s-esque sunnies 
      • Hawaiian-inspired jewelry and accessories (think pieces featuring kukui, hibiscus, shells, plumeria, etc.)


      THE LIFESTYLE

      "I truly grew to admire their carefree and open approach to living, in a country where rules abound and can be quite oppressive."   Kate Klippensteen, page 7 
      How do you live the life of a ganguro? The most honest and straightforward answer is to have fun and be yourself. 

      That being said, ganguro was as much a culture as a fashion style, and like many other subcultures born of a particular time and place, it was associated with distinct activities and hangout spots. Klippensteen lists some of these favored hangouts as Para Para dance clubs, Karaoke bars, Burger Kings and other fast food joints, a crepe stand, or an amusement center. 

      Para Para was a standout activity, which is unsurprising given that it's still widely associated with gyaru today. Back in the ganguro's heyday, they didn't have YouTube tutorials, so many would pay 3,800 yen for step-by-step instructional videos. They'd take these learned moves to the clubs, but it wasn't unusual for the girls to ad-lib. 


      Shopping was also big...unsurprisingly. Marukyu was the holy mecca of ganguro. As of 2000, when this book was created, some of the shops frequented by the gals were Alba Rosa, Egoist, Cecil McBee, Pinky Girls, Love Boat, Love Pets, and Sneep Dip. 

      Remnants of these stores can be found on e-thrifting sites like Mercari JP, or, in the case of Egoist, a physical store remains in Marukyu today. However, the merchandise is alien to what would've been sold in 2000.

      Alba Rosa has undergone a renaissance as of late, due to a renewed interest in gyaru and the resurgence of Y2K and Heisei-era aesthetics. Their iconic blanket coat (seen above) has become one of gyaru's most recognizable symbols, so much so that it has become visual shorthand for '90s to early 2000s gyaru as a whole. 

      Alba Rosa may have started as resort casual attire for adults, but it is now inextricable from gyaru. 


      Several photographs of the girls carrying vinyl shopping bags from then Marukyu housed labels like Idol (stylized with a heart for the 'O') and Alba Rosa are featured.



      HOW TO BE A GANGURO GIRL

      "[Ganguro] have chosen living for the moment, over being isolated, bullied or depressed at school...They would rather put on a flamboyant outfit and hang out with their many friends than worry about tolling away at boring studies or jobs."   Kate Klippensteen, page 6 

      Now that the gyaru revival is upon us, I'd like to compile a list of what is needed to create that peak ganguro look, based on the knowledge we garnered from Kate Klippensteen's book. The style will undoubtedly vary in the modern age, given that many classic brands are now defunct and sell secondhand for exorbitant prices on e-commerce sites. 

      But this is a good place to start as you decide what ganguro means to you. 

      A Tan

      A tan complexion is a non-negotiable for ganguro. When tanning, remember to consider your natural skin tone. While the term ganguro is derived from Chinese characters that literally translates to "blackface," that's not what we're trying to achieve here.  

      White Eyeshadow 

      Whereas nowadays, the iconic "droop" (tarume) has become the key point of most gyaru makeup, for the ganguro, the white-painted eye defined the look. 

      Blue or black shadow was patted on the lid and then outlined with white in an almost reverse raccoon eye. In my opinion, the white on the aegyo sal is the most important part. 

      Tropical-inspired Accessories and Motifs

      Thanks to labels like Alba Rosa, Roco Nails, and MeJane, tropical patterns are a popular addition to any ganguro coordinate. Hibiscus and plumeria hair clips, Kukui bracelets and necklaces, palm tree patterns on skirts and dresses... Once you start looking for it, you'll see it everywhere.

      American surf lifestyle brands like Roxy were also popular. 
       

      A-Line Silhouettes 

      By about 2005ish, when Y2K was in full swing, tiered mini skirts were commonly worn by gyaru. However, during the heyday of the ganguro, it was all about the straight skirt and dress. 

      Platforms

      Whether it's boots, sandals, or sneakers, a shoe with (often towering) height is the way to go. In Kate Klippensteen's book, none of the girls featured wore flat shoes. Not one. 

      Have Fun

      I know this sounds like something a mom tells their kindergartener before they head off to school, but it's true. The crux of the ganguro attitude is being yourself. Unapologetically. 

      "In their somewhat hippie-like world, there is no hierarchy, no ill will. And these gals, like everyone else, want to have FUN. The difference is they do." - Kate Klippensteen, Tokyo, Summer 2000

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