Old-school gyaru is a broad and somewhat nebulous term. It generally describes a period of gyaru that extends from the 90s to about 2008, defined by tan skin, bleached hair, and a bold yet comparatively 'natural' makeup look contrasted to what came later.
Ganguro, much like the burgeoning kogals of the 80s, were the foundation from which all other gyaru substyles evolved.
This is my favorite period of gyaru, and I’ve spent a lot of time researching its attitude, fashion, and cultural impact. I wanted to make a starter kit for Ganguro, not as an expert but as someone who loves the style and wears it daily. This is by no means a definitive guide to gyaru, but I hope it serves as a launching pad for anyone interested in Ganguro.
Glossary
- Ganguro (ガングロ) – A gyaru substyle featuring a deep tan, bleached hair, and bold white makeup.
- Gonguro (ゴングロ) – A more extreme version of ganguro with an even darker tan, usually achieved using makeup and tanning lotions.
- Yamanba (ヤマンバ) & Manba (マンバ) – Later, exaggerated variations of ganguro that introduced more intense colors and makeup.
- Shibuya 109 (渋谷109) – The shopping mall in Tokyo that was the center of gyaru fashion, colloquially referred to as Marukyu (マルキュー).
- Teamer (チーマー) – A delinquent subculture in Japan during the 80s and 90s, often associated with gangs and rebellious youth. Many early gyaru dated Teamers.
- Para Para (パラパラ) – A synchronized dance style popular among gyaru, often performed to Eurobeat music in clubs.
- Shiro gyaru (白ギャル) – The opposite of ganguro; a gyaru style that does not involve tanning and instead emphasizes fair skin. Substyles like himekaji and rokku gyaru do not require tanning.
- Gyaru-kei (ギャル系) – A broad term referring to gyaru fashion and all its substyles.
The History of Ganguro
Origins
Gyaru can be traced back to the late 70s and 80s in Japan, when wealthy school girls developed an interest in luxury Western fashion. They purchased items from Burberry and Louis Vuitton, rolled up their uniform skirts, and wore slouched socks. Many were the girlfriends of delinquent Japanese Teamers. By the time ganguro came around in the 90s, the style expanded beyond the upper echelon and became more associated with the middle-class, with girls from varying income levels participating in the style.
Ganguro was a hodgepodge of influences, both real and imagined: California beach culture, Amuraa fashion, and a teenage-led rebellion against Japan's traditional beauty standards. The tanned skin and bleached hair evoked Malibu surfers, but it also reflected the broader trend in Japan at the time, which, thanks to the popularity of TV dramas like Beach Boys, cemented the casual "beachy" look in the cultural zeitgeist.
Ganguro was a hodgepodge of influences, both real and imagined: California beach culture, Amuraa fashion, and a teenage-led rebellion against Japan's traditional beauty standards. The tanned skin and bleached hair evoked Malibu surfers, but it also reflected the broader trend in Japan at the time, which, thanks to the popularity of TV dramas like Beach Boys, cemented the casual "beachy" look in the cultural zeitgeist.
- Ganguro’s roots trace back to kogal, which emphasized loose socks, modified schoolgirl uniforms, and a carefree attitude.
- The aesthetic was heavily influenced by the coordinates of Shibuya 109 Charisma shop clerks, the idealized perception of California beach culture, Western hip-hop celebrity style, and Japanese (Okinawan) singer Namie Amuro.
- Egg magazine played a crucial role in promoting ganguro, featuring models like Buriteri, who, among others, defined the subculture’s attitude and style.
- The style was most active from the mid-90s to the early 2000s, with variations and substyles like Yamanba and Kuro taking over in later years.
Lifestyle and Community
Ganguro, primarily middle-class teens and young adults, often congregated in Ikebukuro and Shibuya, especially around the iconic Shibuya 109 (Marukyu) mall. They went shopping, attended Para Para dance clubs, did karaoke, took PuriKura photos, and socialized with their friends.
This subculture emphasized fun, friendship, and a vibrant social life. It was all about being true to yourself and not letting the bastards get you down.
How Is Ganguro Different from Other Gyaru Substyles?
Most people today associate gyaru with heavily exaggerated makeup styles (notably the iconic "tarume" or droop), but old-school ganguro was more restrained by comparison.
- The key point is NOT the droop eyeliner shape.
- Unlike later gyaru substyles, early ganguro makeup focused more on white eyeshadow and simple eyeliner rather than an exaggerated shape.
- It was largely tied to mainstream Tokyo trends.
- Old-school ganguro fashion was still closely linked to trends that were popular among teens and young adults at the time. Shibuya 109 brands and Louis Vuitton bags were widespread.
- It is the progenitor of many later gyaru styles.
- You can see the beginnings of many modern gyaru substyles in early ganguro.
- It was subtle (by today’s standards).
- Compared to current gyaru styles, old-school ganguro looked more "natural." At the time, it was considered bold.
Fashion
Signature Brands (Shibuya 109 stores)
- Alba Rosa
- Cocolulu
- MeJane
- Egoist
- Blue Moon Blue
- Roco Nails
- Jassie
- Cecil McBee
- Love Boat
- Idol
How to Shop for Ganguro Today
Since most old-school gyaru brands are extinct (with the exception of Egoist, who no longer makes Ganguro clothing), focus on silhouettes and colors rather than specific labels. Look for:
- A-line skirts, mock neck tops, summer knits, casual resort wear, and stacked platform boots.
- Bright primary colors like oranges, yellows, and greens; bold and fun patterns.
- Mercari Japan and Yahoo Auctions can be used to track down old brands, although the prices can be steep and the sizing uninclusive.
- Thrift stores are a great place to start.
Accessories
- Platform shoes: Chunky sneakers (Buffalo and Question Mark were favored brands), wedge sandals, platform boots.
- Bracelets & rings: Silver, colorful, and stacked in excess.
- Hibiscus everything: evocative of Alba Rosa.
- Fake nails: Not yet extreme in this period; they were mostly square-shaped, shorter, and simple compared to modern styles favored by substyles like Kuro/Tsuyome.
Hair and Makeup
Hair
- Bleached blonde, silver, honey brown, orange that skewed blonde, and caramel tones were most common. Visible dark roots were accepted and, for many of the girls at the time, unavoidable.
- Hair was typically straight with soft volume, though some girls opted for crimped, flipped-out, or lightly textured styles.
- At this point, hair was nowhere near as long as it came to be in later gyaru substyles. Most girls had their hair chopped at the shoulders.
Makeup
- A tan is the defining feature of ganguro. Nearly all other aspects of the look (the white eyeshadow, light lips, and bleached hair) are meant to enhance and emphasize the tan. However, this does not mean you should go as dark as possible. Stay within what is appropriate for your own skin tone. Do not darken your skin in a way that could be considered offensive (i.e. blackface).
- White eyeshadow/highlighter: The most defining element of ganguro makeup (aside from the tan), applied heavily on the brow bone and under the eyes.
- Dark eyeliner: Bold but straightforward, following the natural lash line.
False lashes:
- Fluffy, Western-style lashes were the norm.
- Spiky "manga-style" lashes became popular in later gyaru substyles.
- Some ganguro didn't wear false lashes at all.
Lips:
Most ganguro tried to de-emphasize the lips.- If lips were emphasized at all, it was with very light or white lipstick.
Evolution and Personal Expression
Ganguro style wasn't static. It evolved naturally over time. While some adhered strictly to the core aesthetics, many experimented with variations, reflecting their individual tastes and the deeply personal nature of the subculture. It was due to these experimentations that other iconic substyles (like Yamanba and Kuro/Tsuyome) were born.
Even during Ganguro's peak, many versions of the style coexisted. Some girls went for a more sporty, Jassie-inspired variation. Others leaned toward sexy. Some went beachy. Don't be afraid to mix and match.
Common Misconceptions About Ganguro
“Ganguro is just blackface.”
Ganguro is not blackface; it was never intended to mimic or mock Black people. The tan was meant to reflect a California beach-girl aesthetic and to go against the expectation for "paleness" in women. However, it’s important to acknowledge that some individuals at the time did take it a bit too far. For example, according to the book Japanese School Girl Inferno, Egg model Buriteri allegedly used a foundation that was intended for Black women to achieve her look. While this is worth discussing, the style itself was not created with racist intent, nor is it racist when done appropriately within the natural range of one's own skin tone.
“Ganguro makeup was meant to look Western or imitate white people.”
This is a common misunderstanding. Ganguro was inspired by California beach culture, but it was never about trying to look white. The tan, white-accented makeup and overall aesthetic were stylized and exaggerated in a way that made ganguro distinctly Japanese rather than a direct imitation of any Western look.
"Ganguro is a dead substyle."
"Ganguro is no longer recognizably gyaru."
Getting Started
Getting into old-school gyaru, particularly ganguro, can feel overwhelming at first, but breaking it down into steps makes it much more approachable. Instead of focusing on achieving perfection right away, start with the core elements and build your look over time. That’s how the original Ganguro did it.
Step 1: Focus on Key Elements
Start with the most recognizable aspects of ganguro:
- Tanning: Whether through bronzer, self-tanner, or a safe tanning method, the tan is the foundation of the look.
- White eyeshadow & dark eyeliner
- Casual, beach-inspired fashion, a-line skirts, bright tops, platform shoes.
- Confidence and attitude: Ganguro was as much about mindset as it was about fashion.
Step 2: Build Your Wardrobe Gradually
You don’t need to own an entire old-school gyaru closet overnight! Focus on:
- Basic pieces: Emulate common and popular silhouettes.
- Colors and patterns: Look for bright oranges, yellows, greens, hibiscus prints, and fun patterns.
- Thrift stores and secondhand apps: Mercari Japan, Yahoo Auctions, and local thrift shops can help you find ganguro-inspired pieces.
Step 3: Simplify Your Hair & Makeup
- Hair: Start with a bleached color of your liking. Blonde, honey brown, or silver tones. Shoulder-length styles were common.
- Makeup: The essentials are white eyeshadow, tan and matte foundation, dark eyeliner, fluffy lashes, and pale lips. Keep it bold but simple.
Step 4: Find Community & Inspiration
- Look through old magazines and gyaru blogs to study actual ganguro outfits.
- Watch Japanese media from the time period to get a feel for the era.
- Find like-minded individuals (Like me! Hey!)
Step 5: Embrace the Gyaru Mindset
- Confidence is key. Own your look, and don’t be afraid to stand out.
- Ganguro challenged beauty norms and emphasized self-expression. Be unapologetically you.
- Deepen your friendships, share makeup tips, and take care of each other.
Further Resources
I'll try to update this as I come across more resources. Last updated: 25/2/20
Magazine Archives
YouTube
- A brief breakdown of early ganguro fashion from a Japanese TV show, subtitled in English
- 2000s gal makeup tutorial by Runa on KawaiiPateen
Blogs and Articles
- From my blog:
- Interviewing High School Ganguros in 2000
- Shibuya 1999: A Fashion Study Part 1 and Part 2
- How to Be A Ganguro Girl
- From Galture (in Japanese but can be translated):
